Harvest Seminar
St. Helena - It All Began Here
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Saturday, October 22, 2005
Spottswoode Winery
1902 Madrona Avenue
On a sunny, mild morning 32 association members met on Spottswoode’s crush pad to begin a day devoted to the new St. Helena Viticultural Appellation. Allen Price, board member and a seminar director, greeted the group saying the field seminars on appellations had been held for about ten years. Allen went on to say that the high-end of the wine industry had started in St. Helena, and in through the 1860’s, ‘70’s and ‘80’s was the center of American premium winemaking. Allen then introduced Jennifer Williams, Spottswoode Winery’s vineyard manager and assistant winemaker.
Jennifer has been with Spottswoode for three years. She said George Schonewald had developed the estate on Hudson Avenue, completing its main residence in 1890 and calling it “Esmeralda.” Subsequent owners re-named it. When Mrs. Albert Spotts bought it in 1910, it became “Spottswoode.” 1972 the Novaks bought the property from Constance Holmes Skillings, a relative of Mrs.
Spotts. The Novaks’ first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon was in 1982. Today, 38 acres at Spottswoode are planted to Cabernet and 2 1/2 acres to Sauvignon Blanc. The winery also buys Sauvignon fruit from Frediani in Calistoga and Hyde in Carneros and its Semillon from Toffanelli in Calistoga.
Walking down Hudson Avenue, Jennifer pointed out a vineyard replant program. Because vineyard blocks at Spottswoode average 5 to 6 degrees hotter, they use a Y-shaped trellis system with two catch wires, which assures filtered sunlight and shade on the fruited arms, a system that has come to be known as the “Spottswoode”. The group continued through the gates of the main house and its formal gardens, out to vineyards where Jennifer discussed the redevelopment of three vineyard blocks. These were being prepped for drainage--ripped for old roots and marked out with drainage lines. Jennifer’s favorite piece of farm equipment is the sunflower, by Pellenc, a mechanical weed remover for under-vine tillage. Its “sunflowers” reach two to three inches deep beneath the grapevines. Jennifer also praised their Tortella spader. It eliminates disc pan by working at an angle, fracturing the soil up to a foot deep, unlike a disc that works only at a uniform depth and, over time, can compact the soil. Jennifer said spaders are widely used in the Valley.
Spottswoode has an acute environmental interest affecting all their vineyard practices. For example, they are changing over to biodiesel. They have converted two tractors to the fuel, phasing it in, and changing lots of fuel filters in the process. For two years Spottswoode has planted sustainable cover crops on 4 to 5 acres, alternating rows of a permanent cover of native grasses with rows of triticale, clover, bell bean, oat, pea, and vetch. Before these plants go to seed they are integrated into the soil to retain moisture. An addition of worm castings provides nutrients and worm eggs, increasing the earthworm population in the vineyard.
Jennifer next walked the group down to a creek which borders the property along its south side. There she spoke of a program to remove the invasive giant cane, Arundo donax, from the creek’s banks, one section at a time. Walls of willow wands woven over stakes maintain habitat for creatures at the water’s edge while native grasses, wildflowers and various shrubs are planted and irrigated until they take hold.
Spottswoode was picked two weeks before the seminar, in 5 or 6 days, 20 to 26 tons of fruit each day at 25 to 26˚ Brix. Jennifer said fermentations were going well. Vineyard blocks are planted to a Cabernet Sauvignon clone Jack and Mary Novak chose in the 1970’s. It is quite distinct, although it doesn’t show itself in the leaf. Cabernet clone 337 and the Eisele clone are also planted.
Jennifer said under some of the vineyard there is a layer of clay 18’ down, so they are applying gypsum-lime and do ripper shank tractoring every other row, every other year to lessen the compaction. Jennifer also pointed out the Rainbird valves, programmed to provide automatic watering in all the blocks.
The group returned to the winery, along a row of olive trees that borders Madrona Avenue. The Manzanillo olive trees were planted a dozen years ago. In a few weeks they will be picked and the olives taken to Long Meadow Ranch, to be pressed at its organic olive oil facility. A member asked if veraison might apply to olives?
Later, we asked Ted Hall, of Long Meadow Ranch about veraison. He said it applies only to grapes. Unlike olives, grapes ripen quickly, in a few days. A specific set of measurements determines veraison: the onset of a softening and ripening in grapes and the full expression of varietal character. With veraison, black grapes change color and white grapes, Peter McCrea of Stony Hill Vineyards, contributed, turn translucent.
At Spottswoode Winery Jennifer provided aerial views of the vineyards for members to study, and responded to questions and comments about their visit to this historic vineyard property within St. Helena City Limits.